One of the most popular versions is Louisiana-style remoulade and its made with creole style mustard, creole seasoning, and/or hot sauce. You can find both seasonings in the section of the grocery store where the dried herbs and spices are sold. Ingredients vary, but most include vinegar or tomato paste (or a combination) This is a delicious remoulade sauce to serve with crab cakes or fried fish or seafood in place of tartar. Mayonnaise in the Netherlands is required by the Warenwet (Wares law) of 1998 to contain at least 70% fat and at least 5% egg yolk before it may be called mayonnaise. 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar. For more heat and spiciness: add more hot sauce and creole seasoning (note: adding more seasoning will also raise the saltiness so keep this in mind), For more fattiness or to even out the saltiness and heat: add more mayonnaise. Or add some sugar or another sweetener to taste. Cajun and Creole seasonings can be used interchangeably in this recipe, but they aren't identical. Rmoulade is a mayonnaise-based sauce of French origin that's often served with seafood. Here's how to make a creamy and rich crab cake sauce in under 5 minutes. For leftover sauce, transfer it into an airtight container and fridge. [14], A 2010 paper on salsa food hygiene described refrigeration as "the key" to safe sauces. [11], Due to smaller than usual Canadian crop of mustard seeds in 2021, a shortage of dijon mustard began in France in 2022. Pommes-Soe or Frittensoe (fry sauce) is a lightly spiced mayonnaise similar to the Dutch Fritessaus. Another good sauce option that goes well with seafood is a tomato-based cocktail sauce. What do you serve with shrimp remoulade? Mix together the wet ingredients the mayonnaise, spicy brown mustard, lemon juice, hot sauce, and Worcestershire sauce. "Salsa and Guacamole Increasingly Important Causes of Foodborne Disease", U.S. National Center for Home Food Preservation Salsas, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Salsa_(Mexican_cuisine)&oldid=1114661575, Short description is different from Wikidata, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License 3.0, 66% of the sauces from restaurants tested in, This page was last edited on 7 October 2022, at 16:43. One of the most popular versions is Louisiana-style remoulade and its made with creole style mustard, creole seasoning, and/or hot sauce. This classic tartar sauce may be simple, but it packs loads of flavor and is the perfect accompaniment to a seafood meal. The term "zigeuner" has been used in Germany for over a century regarding the sauce. July 4, 2022 by Jocelyn (Grandbaby Cakes) Jump to Recipe Print Recipe. [14] However "moutarde de Bourgogne" has a PGI and its seeds have to be produced in Bourgogne. In France, many Turkish restaurants and fast food establishments serve fry sauce and call it sauce cocktail; it is also common for customers to request ketchup-mayo (a dab of mayonnaise and a dab of ketchup) alongside their French fries at such places. Get it free when you sign up for our newsletter. If you dont have these ingredients at home to make remoulade, there are also other things you can make that go well with crab cakes. Instructions. This Cajun Remoulade Sauce Recipe is creamy, tangy, and bold enough to be the perfect pairing with fried foods such as po boys, fried okra, fried catfish, and even fried chicken tenders. The version of remoulade found in Louisiana reflects that by changing up the seasonings and adding ingredients such as mustard and garlic. Step 1 In a medium bowl, whisk mayonnaise, mustard, pickles, chives, parsley, hot sauce, lemon juice, horseradish, Cajun seasoning, and paprika until smooth. Plus, when you make your own tartar sauce from scratch, you know exactly what's in it. Dill sauce is a natural pairing with salmon: this delicate herb is often paired with fish in Scandinavian cuisine. Chiltomate is a widely used base sauce made of tomatoes and chiles. Even though this crab cake sauce has what seems like a lot of ingredients, its super simple to prep. Since July 15 2009, Dijon mustard is no longer manufactured and packaged in the town of Dijon, but in the neighbouring town of Chevigny-Saint-Sauveur,[9] and 80% of mustard seeds used in the manufacture of contemporary Dijon mustard come from Canada. Taste and adjust the seasonings as desired. Smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, salt, and cayenne pepper. Matching search results: This Louisiana-style remoulade sauce recipe is essentially flavored mayonnaise thats taken to level 10. Since the 2000s sweet salsas combining fruits with peppers like habanero, Scotch bonnet and datil have grown in popularity and are served with frozen dessert, cheesecakes, and pound cakes. Add a handful of chopped basil once the sauce is blended. Mexican salsas were traditionally produced using the mortar and pestle-like molcajete, although blenders are now used. [12] The shortage has been exacerbated by stockpiling by consumers. [13], Dijon mustard does not have a protected geographical indication (PGI). Southern-cuisine expert and cookbook author Diana Rattray has created more than 5,000 recipes and articles in her 20 years as a food writer. I also included garlic, chives, sugar, paprika, and cayenne to amp up the flavors. Chimichurri (Spanish: [timituri]) is an uncooked sauce used both as an ingredient in cooking and as a table condiment for grilled meat.Found in Argentinian and Uruguayan cuisines, the sauce comes in a green (chimichurri verde) and red (chimichurri rojo) version.It is made of finely chopped parsley, minced garlic, olive oil, oregano and red wine vinegar. This creamy, slightly spicy, sauce is the perfect accompaniment to crab cakes, fried green tomatoes, fried shrimp and more! Other ingredients you can add: flat-leaf parsley, sweet relish, horseradish, other types of pickles. This version does not use horseradish, but feel free to add about1 to 2 tablespoons if you'd like. Whats great about making this sauce at home is that you get a customizable sauce that you can make in under 5 minutes. When you're making homemade, you are able to tweak it as you like, while still remaining true to a proper tartar sauce. It is similar to mayonnaise, but with at most 25% fat, is leaner and usually sweeter than mayonnaise. [15], "The Difference Between Dijon and Yellow Mustard", "Amora Dijon ferme dfinitivement ses portes aprs deux sicles d'activit", "France Faces a Shortage of Mustard, Its Uniquely Beloved Condiment", "French Shoppers Face Up to Life Without Dijon Mustard", "Camembert, moutarde de Dijon, jambon Aoste, champignons de Paris 7 "faux" produits du terroir passs au crible", Techniques actuelles de fabrication de la moutarde, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dijon_mustard&oldid=1120266828, Articles with French-language sources (fr), Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License 3.0, Seeds are examined, cleaned, dried, and stored, Seeds are crushed and ground on corundum stone mill, Hulls and bran are sifted out via screening device, The mustard is bottled and packed for shipment, This page was last edited on 6 November 2022, at 03:11. There are no preservatives, thickeners, modified starches, or high fructose corn syrup. They have different ingredients, and Cajun seasoning is hotter than Creole seasoning. [3], The main ingredients of the modern condiment are brown mustard seeds (Brassica juncea) and a mixture of white wine, vinegar, water, and salt designed to imitate the original verjuice. There are liquid varieties such as maesil-cheong (plum syrup), jam-like varieties such as yuja-cheong (yuja marmalade), and conserve-like varieties such as mogwa This recipe is an excellent alternative to tartar sauce, as it is very similar but has additional ingredients. We've updated our Privacy Policy, which will go in to effect on September 1, 2022. Mayonnaise is used commonly around the world, and is also a base for many other chilled sauces and salad dressings.For example, sauce rmoulade, in classic French cuisine, is a mix of mayonnaise and mustard, gherkins, capers, parsley, chervil, tarragon, and possibly anchovy essence. The remoulade is better if left for a few hours to let the flavors meld. Instead of tartar sauce, use a garlicky aioli with or without a little dill or chopped pickle. I made the sauce around 5 p.m. and it was delicious and smooth and a perfect consistency. You can easily customize it to fit your personal taste too! If you don't have any pickle juice on hand, use a little lemon juice or vinegar. [25], Sauce used as a condiment often served with fries, "Heinz's 'New' Mayo-Ketchup Hybrid Already Exists", "A Brief History of Fry Sauce, Utah's Favorite Condiment", "How does Heinz's Mayochup stack up against other mayo-ketchup sauces? Remoulade and seafood are definitely a perfect pair, but there are also non-fish and shellfish dishes that are complemented by the flavorful sauce. Gypsy sauce is a sauce or demi-glace sauce used as an ingredient in dishes and as a condiment. The unmodified term ("ketchup") now typically refers to tomato ketchup, although early American recipes used egg whites, mushrooms, oysters, grapes, mussels, or walnuts, among other ingredients.. Tomato ketchup is made from tomatoes, sugar, and vinegar, with seasonings and spices.The spices If you don't care for the raw garlic taste, use 1 teaspoon of garlic powder. Quick and easy to make, this mayonnaise based recipe comes together in a few minutes. It is usually a combination of one part tomato ketchup and two parts mayonnaise. If you do any traveling around Louisiana you'll find that it seems like almost everyone has their own "secret recipe" for this sauce. French cuisine has a lot of influence on Louisiana cuisine, and the Cajuns and Creoles have a lot of influence on Louisiana cuisine. This Chinese white sauce is a light, clear, delicate sauce that's perfect for any stir fry recipe! Traditionally, Louisiana-style remoulade uses Creole mustard (or stone-ground mustard), but I didnt have any available nearby, so I adjusted the recipe using dijon mustard. "[6]:40,42 The Arctic Circle chain still serves fry sauce in its western United States restaurants. (Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate. Both sauce cocktail and the Thousand Island dressing-like sauce cocktail can often be found in supermarkets.[18][19]. The type of pepper used for chiltomate varies by region, with fresh green chiles being more common than habanero in Chiapas. Prounounced reh-moo-lahd, this classic condiment is popular in Louisiana. With this cookbook, youre never more than a few steps away from a down home dinner. I'm here to help, so leave a comment with any questions! Mayonnaise and dill pickles are the main ingredients, while chopped dill, capers, a bit of lemon juice, and a dash of mustard add complexity to the flavor. This Louisiana-style Remoulade Sauce is a smoky + tangy dipping sauce. Taste test your crab cake sauce and adjust from there. It is a kind of rice wine similar to sake, but with a lower alcohol content14% instead of 20%. Stir to blend the ingredients thoroughly. Rmoulade is a mayonnaise-based sauce of French origin that's often served with seafood. Season the remoulade sauce with salt, smashed garlic and Worcestershire sauce. Perfect for po boys, cooked shrimp, fried green tomatoes + crab cakes. 4 tablespoons of yogurt (or crme frache) 1 tablespoon of chopped basil. [5][3][17] In Spain and Colombia, it is known as salsa rosa or salsa rosada, a variant of cocktail sauce or Marie Rose sauce. Remoulade is a cold mayonnaise based sauce similar to tartar sauce that originated in France. In cases where multiple ingredient alternatives are given, the first listed is calculated for nutrition. Its the best sauce for crab cakes, in poboys, and with french fries. It's also awesome as a substitute for ketchup with french fries. Cajun seasoning is heavy with peppers of varying types of heat levels. Cookies collect information about your preferences and your devices and are used to make the site work as you expect it to, to understand how you interact with the site, and to show advertisements that are targeted to your interests. Tracy Wilk, 1 1/2 tablespoons dill pickles, or cornichons, finely chopped, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill, or 1 teaspoon dried dill, Pinch freshly ground black pepper, or to taste. Use a vegan mayonnaise for a vegan-friendly tartar sauce. Rmoulademakes an excellentburger topping as well and is delicious as a dip for french fries. Remoulade sauce originated in France (as many South Louisiana recipes have) as a cold, mayonnaise-based sauce used with cold meat, fish, and shellfish. An oyster bar, also known as an oyster saloon, oyster house or a raw bar service, is a restaurant specializing in serving oysters, or a section of a restaurant which serves oysters buffet-style.Oysters have been consumed since ancient times and were common tavern food in Europe, but the oyster bar as a distinct restaurant began making an appearance in the 18th century. 1/4 cup mustard (Creole mustard if possible), 1 to 2 teaspoons Cajun or Creole seasoning, divided (see recipe note), 1 teaspoon pickle juice (dill or sweet, your preference), 1 teaspoon hot sauce (preferably Tabasco). Danish remoulade has a mild, sweet-sour taste and a medium yellow color. Garnishes and optional ingredients are not included. Salsa is a variety of sauces used as condiments for tacos and other Mexican and Mexican-American foods, and as dips for tortilla chips. / Whatever the name, a squirt of red can change everything", "Surface decontamination of fruits and vegetables eaten raw: a review". In Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, Peru, Ecuador, and Chile, a similar condiment known as salsa golf (golf sauce) is a popular dressing for fries, burgers, steak sandwiches, and seafood salads. Salsa fresca is fresh salsa made with tomatoes and hot peppers. These cookies are only used to improve a websites performance and user experience. ; Salt can be added if needed, but most Cajun and Creole seasonings will have enough salt. Store remoulade sauce made with store-bought mayonnaise tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. These days, remoulade is often used as a general dipping sauce for seafood too and has different variations throughout the world. Subscribe to my newsletter! Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate. It's served most often with shrimp and crab cakes, po boy sandwiches, and even chicken. Ive tried store-bought prepared ones and they never hold up to the deliciousness of a homemade version. Chef Paul Prudhomme made the fish very popular in the early 1980s with his recipe for Cajun-style blackened redfish. Louisiana-style remoulades also include mustard (and/or horseradish) and cajun seasonings. The second is shio mirin, which contains alcohol as well as 1.5% salt to avoid alcohol tax. [20] This style of serving is often called Pommes Rot-Wei or, colloquially Pommes Schranke (barrier gate) due to the red-and-white coloration of those. [7] In the United States, salsa is used in marinades, salad dressings, stews, and cooked sauces. There are three general types. Cayenne pepper, black pepper, tabasco sauce, a. A remoulade is a mayonnaise with mustard, capers, chopped gherkins, herbs and anchovies. In a small bowl, mix together mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, parsley, hot sauce, whole-grain mustard, garlic, capers, Worcestershire sauce, paprika, scallion, salt, and cayenne pepper. Add heat to the sauce with a few teaspoons of Sriracha sauce, some Tabasco or cayenne, or 1 or 2 teaspoons of sambal (Asian chile paste). A condiment similar to the American fry sauce is known as Cocktailsoe, but it is more often used for dner kebab than for French fries. We've updated our Privacy Policy, which will go in to effect on September 1, 2022. The use of salsa as a table dip was first popularized by Mexican restaurants in the United States. An A-Z Guide to Cooking Terms and Definitions. Salsa is a variety of sauces used as condiments for tacos and other Mexican and Mexican-American foods, and as dips for tortilla chips.They may be raw or cooked, and are generally served at room temperature. [1] First used in 1336 for the table of King Philip VI,[2] it assumed its current form in 1856 when Jean Naigeon of Dijon replaced the vinegar usually used in prepared mustard with verjuice, the acidic juice of unripe grapes, with vinegar. We've updated our Privacy Policy, which will go in to effect on September 1, 2022. Chile. Start with 1 teaspoon of the Cajun or Creole seasoning and add as much of the remaining teaspoon to taste. You can customize this recipe in the following ways: Like this recipe? You can use a vegan base, such as vegan mayonnaise. And of course, you could always add more heat to amp up the spice level. [10] The Grey Poupon mustard brand available in the United States originated in Dijon in 1866. [7], In 2008, the Anglo-Dutch group Unilever, which had several mustard plants in Europe, closed the Amora manufacturing plant. Common ingredients added to the mayonnaise base in the traditional French sauce are mustard, gherkins, capers, and herbs, and sometimes anchovy and hard-cooked eggs. New Orleans Rmoulade Sauce is traditionally served with Seafood. It adds a delicious tangy kick to fried seafood, such as shrimp or oysters. Put the egg yolks, water, lemon juice, mustard, salt, and garlic in a blender. The name tartar sauce is derived from the French sauce tartare, which was named after the Tatars, Turkic-speaking peoples living mainly in Russia. In Germany, a popular product called Rot Wei (red white) is sold in toothpaste-style tubes; it consists of unmixed ketchup and mayonnaise, which form a red-and-white striped string when squeezed out. Required fields are marked *. It is made of two parts ketchup and one part mayonnaise with the addition of garlic. This easy Cajun Remoulade Sauce adds a spicy kick to your meals. Cook time is chill time." [15], "Ketchup? I like to make it in a mason jar so that if I have leftovers, I can put a lid on top and store it in the fridge for later use. Creole seasoning is more savory from herbs such as thyme, basil, and oregano. In Iceland, a condiment similar to fry sauce called Kokteilssa (cocktail sauce) is popular. It is used as a tea base, as a honey-or-sugar substitute in cooking, and as a condiment. Or double the recipe if you're feeding a crowd. true mirin), which contains alcohol. Let sit for 1 hour for flavors to combine, then serve or cover and store in the refrigerator. Remoulade Sauce. Immediately prior to serving the ice cream, I reheated the sauce and as soon as it hit the ice cream, it turned rock hard. Swap out the fresh chopped dill with 1 or 2 tablespoons of fresh chopped parsley. ", "Heinz' New 'Mayochup' Sauce Incites Total Condiment Mayhem", "Heinz Teased 'Mayochup', a New Mayo and Ketchup Condiment. Cover and refrigerate the rmoulade sauce until serving time. It's thickened with cornstarch and can be used in any stir fry recipe! You can also sometimes find them by the seafood section since they are often used on fish. Is Remoulade a Creole or Cajun? Mayonaisse: This thick sauce is made up of egg yolks, vinegar or lemon juice, and oil. All rights reserved. Get weekly recipe updatessent to your inbox! Folks, Remoulade Sauce just might be the perfect condiment. He first used the term "blackened" to describe a dish of redfish in his cookbook, Chef Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen. For a sweeter tartar sauce, replace the chopped dill pickles with chopped sweet pickles. The minced onion can be replaced with about 1/2 teaspoon of onion powder. You can toss cooked shrimp in to make a shrimp salad. A Contentious Online Debate Ensued", "Zax Sauce - Sauces & Dressings - Menu | Zaxby's", "We tried two cult chicken chains that are quickly taking over the nation and the winner was clear", "Yum Yum Sauce: The Making Of An American Condiment", "Move over, Mayochup. Instead of chopped dill pickles, use dill pickle relish. The popularity of the dish led to the overfishing of redfish in the Gulf of Mexico. French cuisine has a lot of influence on Louisiana cuisine, and the Cajuns and Creoles have a lot of influence on Louisiana cuisine. Refrigerate the tartar sauce until serving time. Fry sauce is a condiment often served with French fries or tostones (twice-fried plantain slices) in many places in the world. Use an oil with a high smoking point, such as canola, corn, safflower, peanut, avocado, or grapeseed oilavoid olive oil or butter, since they will burn at the temperatures required for frying.Don't skip the flour coating, since it provides a delicious crispy It also thickens the sauce up a bit. Or spread it on a po'boy sandwich, salmon burger, or fish sandwich. Community Pick. (Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate.). For more acidity, add more lemon; for more fattiness, add more mayonnaise; for more saltiness, add more mustard or creole seasoning. Its the best sauce for crab cakes, in poboys, and with french fries. The flavor was very delicious, but I wanted to keep the sauce liquid so it would ooze down the side of the ice cream. This creates a bright sauce that is also wonderful on chicken or beef. Start with 1 teaspoon, taste, and add more as needed. Remoulade is a cold French sauce with a mayonnaise base. 13 Mardi Gras Recipes to Let the Good Times Roll, 5 Louisiana-Inspired Recipes for Mardi Gras Week, How To Make Mayonnaise in a Blender or Food Processor, The Best Potato Salad Recipes for Get-Togethers. For a sweeter tartar sauce, replace the chopped dill pickles with chopped sweet pickles. What Its Made Of & How To Use It, Vietnamese Scallions & Oil Garnish Recipe (M Hnh), Your email address will not be published. About Me. teaspoon of sugar. [5] It may have first appeared there in 1955 at Stan's Drive-In, which was then a franchise of Arctic Circle. It's featured in Louisiana cuisine, and a New Orleans-style rmoulade sometimes contains chopped hard-boiled eggs. Here are some mayo combinations to try instead", "Fry sauce and Arctic Circle hit big 6-0", "My search for the truth: Who invented Utahs fry sauce? 74. Remoulade (reh-moo-lahd) may be a classic French sauce, but it is the Louisiana version with which most of us are familiar. This louisiana remoulade sauce recipe is easy and delicious with seafood and baked or fried fish. Though both tartar sauce and remoulade start with mayonnaise as a base, tartar sauce typically has just a few ingredients (mayonnaise, pickles, dill and often lemon juice), while Louisiana-style remoulade is a more complex blend of ingredients and spices. This tartar sauce is such an improvement over what you get in jars that you may never buy it again. Elise founded Simply Recipes in 2003 and led the site until 2019. Fresh minced garlic cloves add delicious flavor and freshness. Mayonaisse, whole grain mustard, fresh lemon juice, paprika, hot sauce, sweet relish, Worcestershire sauce, and the optional creole seasoning. [21], In the Philippines, a similar sauce is made by combining mayonnaise and banana ketchup. [] Get it free when you sign up for our newsletter. By clicking Accept All Cookies, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, dill pickles, dill, lemon juice, mustard, minced onion (if using), capers, salt, and pepper. RELATED: Ideas for making a vegan version tartar sauce also apply to rmoulade. Asian Soy Glaze Recipe (Sticky & Sweet Sauce), Vietnamese Pickled Carrots & Daikon Radish Recipe ( Chua), What Is Sriracha Sauce? [1], Though the word salsa means any kind of sauce in Spanish, in English, it refers specifically to these Mexican table sauces, especially to the chunky tomato-and-chili-based pico de gallo, as well as to salsa verde. These cookies are used in the context of cooperation with selected partners in order to display personalised content matching your interests or to evaluate, track and invoice joint campaigns. It is a delectable combination of creamy and tangy, and in my preferred variation, with just the right amount of heat.Were talking addictive, gotta-have-some more, big, bold flavor. [3], Although sauce composed of a mixture of equal parts ketchup and mayonnaise appears in a New Orleans cookbook published in 1900,[4] fry sauce was popularized in Utah. It can contain pickles, anchovies, and capers, and frequently calls for horseradish. Remoulade Sauce is a NOLA classic. In the United Kingdom, more specifically, London, this sauce is known as "burger sauce", and is served in one of two ways: In Puerto Rico, mayoktchup is widely used with tostones, sandwiches, burgers, and fried foods. Blackened fish, shrimp or chicken is excellent with the Creamy Cajun Sauce, but it Creamy, rich, and savory crab cake sauce with a kick of spice is the best combination with any fried seafood in my opinion. The typical industrially-made variety does not contain capers, but finely-chopped cabbage and pickled cucumber, fair amounts of sugar, and a touch of curry powder (mustard seeds, cayenne pepper, coriander, onion powder, and turmeric) mostly for color.The fresh herbs are replaced by herbal Many countries have different variations. Ketchup or catsup is a table condiment with a sweet and tangy flavor. Dijon mustard (French: Moutarde de Dijon) is a traditional mustard of France, named after the town of Dijon in Burgundy, France, which was the center of mustard making in the late Middle Ages and was granted exclusive rights in France in the 17th century. We used this sauce for shrimp po'boys and it was delightful! Remoulade Sauce, also known as Remoulade Dressing is a tangy sometimes spicy flavored sauce that is so useful and versatile and super easy to put together in just a few minutes. The trick to perfect fried fish lies in the oil and temperature used for cooking it and in the coating used on the fish. For example, my go-to sauce is even ratios of mayonnaise and ketchupthis is the bootleg remoulade sauce. This study also found that fresh lime juice and fresh garlic (but not powdered garlic) would prevent the growth of Salmonella. Add zesty flavor with a dash of horseradish. Its also great as a spread for poboy sandwiches directly on the bread or on fried catfish too! According to tradition, the sauce was invented by Luis Federico Leloir, a Nobel laureate and restaurant patron, at a golf club in Mar del Plata, Argentina, during the mid-1920s. Add a bit of heat with a few drops of Tabasco sauce or Sriracha, or fold in 1 or 2 teaspoons of minced pickled or fresh jalapeo pepper. Cheong is a name for various sweetened foods in the form of syrups, marmalades, and fruit preserves in Korean cuisine. Try a dollop or little cup with any of these dishes. Whip this up anytime you want a great Seafood Sauce! Southern-cuisine expert and cookbook author Diana Rattray has created more than 5,000 recipes and articles in her 20 years as a food writer.
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